YEs, if you practice and know what you're doing, you can make nice looking wedges.    However, as a hobby machinist and metalworker, the simplistic summary that you've provided has some issues and leaves out lots of details.  First off Coke may be acidic but will take a long time to remove chrome (if ever) and the torch will oxidize the finish if heated too hot, you need to heat without oxygen to get a good finish.  Heating too much will harden/anneal the club so be careful there. 

With the help of google I found the article you're referring to and the guy who refinished these clubs is good.  His summary doesn't give enough details to ensure a good finish either.  He used some gunsmithing finish on some of them.  I may try to do that for some of my son's wedges.  The chromed scratch wedge turned out great.

note that the coke is used to clean the surface, not remove the chrome.  Vinegar or weak acid would probably work better.

I highly recommend practicing on some old junkers before trying to do the clubs in your bag. 

Cool project though. --jerry

Howdy guys! First time here. I have started "bluing" wedges..really any iron that does not have any insert or plastic crap in them. Started with a Walmart Dunlop lob wedge (budget constraints) stainless steel.  Phys ed. teacher by trade but rustic furniture, knife maker and soon to be "club restorer" extrodinaire (sp ?). First gave the bounce a custom grind, taking some off the toe and some off the heel.  Sanded the groove section to 150 grit. sharpened the grooms with a modified tungsten rod, polished the entire club and then set out on creating the magical bluing effect!!  Took the head off and but used the shaft as the holder of my club head in a padded vice.  Placed 1 quart of new oil in a....FIRST MISTAKE, big plastic cup.  Yes, this is where I hear laughter throughout the internet!!  Have a portable torch hose that connects to a small camping size propane bottle that clips to my belt.  Had on thick leather gloves, goggles and actually practiced taking the club off the shaft and placing it where the oil would be.  Had the oil about a foot away from where I was torching.  Started the torching process, directing the majority of the heat in the center part, or thickest part of the wedge.  Did not care if the hosel got color. kept moving the torch over the back of the wedge.  Started to see color, straw at first and then darker brown and then purple/blue. It was so amazing and extremely hot and scarey! Went a little further and then quickly turned off the torch, set it down and using a pair of non marring pliers carefully lifted it straight up and over into the cup and released it and stepped back!!!  Started smoking just a litte, "ok, thats not bad" I thought.  Then it happened.... a small stream of oil started running out and then grew till I saw the sides of the cup buldge and reveal (along with the hot oil on my concrete) a plastic coated wedge.  Waited till it cooled and was kicking myself for not thinking that  a metal object heated to 550-570 degrees would possibly melt plastic.  Started picking at the plastic coating and low and behold, it peeled away to reveal this colored wedge!!!!! Dark browns with purple and blue hues running along the back!!  The face of the club had a nice straw color.  I was fine with that.  Wiped off the remaining oil and looked at it in the Alabama setting sun... just amazing. Gotta get to bus duty.  Will be doing my sand wedge very soon using a metal container this time.  Later guys.

Thanks Joe. I'ii give it a try.

would using vinegar on a 200 vokey work?ive let it soak for a day yet there havent been many changes. i know the 200 series has a thicker chrome finish. any advice to remove the finish would help

You guys are stupid to try and alter a Vokey wedge.  Leave it to the professionals.

its good for and old wedge to make it look cool other wise i agree